Things you should know about this swap
The following is a list of information you should know before performing this swap. Please contact us if you have any questions.
1. The mount kit you are using is intended for use with an H-Series (H22A, H23) Engine and transmission out of a Honda Prelude 92-01 (Non-SH). While this kit can be used for many other H-Series & F-Series Engines it is important to note that they will need to be converted to H-Series (Prelude) Specifications first. IE if your engine came out of a Honda Accord (as it common with F-Series Swaps) you will need to change your post bracket on the Left hand (timing belt side) of your engine to one from a H22A Prelude Engine to be compatible with your new mount kit. Likewise if you are trying to use an Accord F-Series Transmission you may need to convert or modify your transmission to H22A Prelude Specification. Most Accord transmissions have both bolt patterns only the second may not be threaded. If this is the case you may need to drill and tap those extra two holes to utilize the H-Series mount kit.
2. Ground and hood clearance – The H22 engine is a tall engine. Innovative engine mounts are designed to hold
the engine with as much ground clearance as possible.
3. Power Steering – The Civic or Integra power steering hose will not work with the H-series power steering
pump. Just like with K-series swaps, new power steering hoses need to be custom made and the reservoir will
need to be relocated.
4. AC – To retain AC, you will need an AC compressor from a H-series engine and have custom AC lines
made to fit the car.
5. Shift mechanism – An Accord or Prelude shifter box and cables are needed to operate the H/F-series
transmissions.
6. Cooling and radiator – The Civic and Del sol radiators can be used, but using one with a bigger inlet-outlet IE one designed for B-Series Swap is recommended.
7. Clutch Actuation – The stock clutch master will operate the H/F-series slave cylinder. You will need some custom lines to make the connection.
Removing the Engine: (Save all Bolts, You will need them)
1. Discharge R134A from AC system. Disconnect the hoses from the compressor. You will be removing the
compressor with the engine. (Have a professional evacuate your system.)
2. Follow the appropriate Honda/Acura Service Manual’s instructions for removing the engine from your car. Although the Service Manual shows a hoist being used and lifting the engine out of the top, this
process can be simplified if you have access to a chassis lift. With the lift, you can use a flat surface about 10 inches tall to support the engine from underneath while unbolting it from the vehicle. After it is unbolted use the lift to raise the chassis off the engine.
Preparing the Engine and Engine Bay:
1. The major change to the engine bay is the installation of the new
passenger side engine bracket. It will replace the
current right-hand transmission bracket in the car.
2. To make removing the existing transmission bracket easier, you
will need these tools:
Center punch
1/8 inch drill bit
3/8 or 1/2 inch pilot point drill bit
3. Begin by center punching all the spot-welds on the mount. This is so the drill bit won’t drift when
drilling.
Next use the 1/8 inch drill to drill a hole approximately 3/16 inches deep. This will prevent the pilot
point drill from drifting. Don’t worry if you drill completely through the sheet metal.
Now use the pilot point drill to drill a hole as deep as the bracket sheet metal is thick.
4. A chisel and hammer can now be used to finish removing the bracket. Once it is off use the die grinder with a sanding wheel to remove any left over material.
5. Installing the right-hand mount bracket will require the two 10mm x 150mm bolts, four 10mm washers and two 10mm nyloc nuts supplied with your mount kit.
6. Start by sliding the bracket over the frame rail so the holes at the bottom of the bracket line up with
the torque mount holes on the bottom of the frame rail. Next mark the frame rail on the top using the
mount bracket as a guide. After removing the bracket, use a 3/8ths inch drill bit and drill the two
holes in the frame rail.
7. Slide the bracket back on the frame rail and thread the two bolts
down through the bracket and out the bottom. Tighten the bolts
to about 10ft/lbs of torque. Be careful to check the alignment of
the bracket so the bolts thread easily all the way through the
bracket. Do not over tighten.
8.Using a wrench to keep the bolt from moving install the 10mm
Nyloc nuts and tighten them to 36 ft/lbs of torque.
9. To install the rear mount you will need the 10mm x 35mm bolt
and washer along with two of the stock 10mm rear mount bolts.
10. At this time install the new rear engine mount on the
rear engine crossmember. Use the longer bolts (if supplied with your kit)
for the front of the mount and the two stock bolts at the rear.
Leave the bolts finger tight at this time.
11. On the Prelude transmission remove the three studs from the top
of the transmission. This will aid in installing the transmission
mount.
12. When the engine is installed, the top corner if your transmission will make contact with the underside of the frame
rail.
13. Using the left-hand mount as a guide a quick check fit of the
engine will show you where on the frame rail the contact will
occur. A relief hole or dent should be put in the frame rail to
allow clearance for this part of the transmission.
Engine Installation:
(Please Note) Installing from the bottom
Installing from the bottom is the preferred way to
install an engine into a Honda car. These instruction
will deal with installing the engine from the bottom.
Place the engine and transmission on an engine stand
or cart positioned under the vehicle. Make the engine
as level as possible on the cart, this will aid
installation. Also remove the throttle body and Air
Intake Bypass vacuum reservoir to prevent them
from being broken during installation.
Installing from the top
If you don’t have access to a lift, the engine can be
installed from the top. Honda engines come with
special hangers to help with attaching it to a hoist.
Be careful with the hoist chain and don’t let it do
damage to the throttle body components or other
sensors on the engine. Removing the hood will make
removal and installation easier.
1. Lower the car or the engine slowly taking care not to hit the
engine on the way down. Keep a close eye on the sub-frame to
make sure it doesn’t come into contact with any parts of the
engine or wiring harness. It is a good idea to remove the header,
alternator and brackets to ease installation.
2. Once the engine is in the bay, but before the car is lowered completely, install the right-hand mount
and bolt it to the transmission using the two 10mm x 50mm bolts and one 10mm x 30mm bolt. Leave
all the bolts finger tight at this time.
3. Lower the car the rest of the way to line up the left-hand mount. Install it by sliding the mount over
the stud using the stock hardware to attach it. Next use the stock bolt to attach the mount to the frame
rail bracket. Tighten all the left-hand mount hardware to 43 ft/lbs.
4. Next lower the car and bolt the transmission mount to the new frame bracket using the 12mm x 100mm
bolt, two washers and nut. Torque the right--hand mount 12mm hardware to 43 ft/lbs and the 10mm
hardware to 33 ft/lbs.
5. Now that the engine is supported by the left and right-hand mounts we can connect the rear bracket to
the transmission. Attach the bracket to the engine block. Use the 12mm x 100mm bolt nyloc nut and washers to attach the bracket
to the rear mount. Next install the other three 12mm x 70mm bolts through the rear bracket into the
transmission. You may need to lift the rear of the engine slightly to get the other bracket holes to line
up with the transmission.
6. Once all the bolts are in , tighten all the bolts to 43 ft/lbs.
Extra Tools Required for this Swap Include
Center Punch, Electric Hand Drill, 1/8” Drill Bit,
3/8” Pilot Point Drill Bit, Die Grinder
